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The Ascent of the Similaun Peak in June 1840

Summary

An account in the Bote für Tirol details the preparations for the second ascent of the Similaun peak in the Schnals valley on 22 June 1840. In order to carry out barometric altitude measurements, the author engaged mountain guides from Schnals once again. An editorial note emphasizes the significance of the panorama and calls for further expeditions.

Full transcription

Appendix.

The Ascent of the Similaunspitze in the Valley of Schnals on 22 June 1840 *)

To the fatherland, the beloved, attach thyself,

Hold fast to it with all thy heart!

Here lie the sturdy roots of thy strength,

There in the alien world thou standest alone.

Schiller's Tell.

In the formidable Rhaetian mountain massif, which forms the greater part of the Tyrolean Alpine world from Orteles to the Brenner, lies—tucked away almost in the furthest corner of Schnals, modestly situated to the side among several high peaks, yet towering over all of them—the Similaunspitze.

On 27 August of last year, I ascended it for the first time in the company of seven individuals from Schnals; the account of this ascent was published in numbers 96–98 of these pages last year. But because the thick fog then prevailing upon the summit and glacier deprived me of all views, I departed from that exalted vantage point with a heavy heart, yet with the firm resolve to return with some friends around the time of the summer solstice, to keep watch for a night upon the eyrie of the eagle.

Thus at that time, apart from describing the route of ascent and descent, nothing remained for me but to undertake the barometric altitude measurement, for which I used a simple but well-regulated barometer; for this year, however, I commissioned a cane barometer suitable for the journey from the most skilled instrument maker Mannfredo in Bozen.

I then made arrangements for this year's ascent with Weitthaler, Unterauer, and Rafeiner, owner of the Leitergut—both in Schnals, and my guides and companions from the previous year—to whom Mr. Johann Egger, cooperator in Unser Frau, gladly and willingly joined himself.

Although several lovers of high mountains had earlier expressed the wish ………………..

******Continuation??

… accessible directly in the digital Teßmann Archive (8 issues in total).

*) In the previous year we already published an article in these pages on the author's first ascent of the Similaunspitze, which aroused great interest. Of heightened interest is this second one, because favorable weather permitted a most extensive view. If the author's observations are not based on an illusion in individual points (and anyone who has ever enjoyed such an expansive panorama knows how difficult it is to orient oneself in such a sea of mountain peaks and crests, indistinct partly owing to distance!), the view from the Similaun is among the grandest our homeland has to offer. For this reason we urgently encourage the author to repeat his trip next year, or express the wish that another experienced mountaineer feel encouraged to climb the Similaun, both to confirm further the indicated points of the panorama and to establish the altitude measurements more accurately. The Editors.

1840 at a glance

The year 1840 in Merano and the region witnessed contrasting developments, ranging from organized urban poverty relief and scientific high-alpine explorations of the Similaun to devastating storm and mudslide damage in the Vinschgau valley. Simultaneously, the solemn commemoration of the 1809 Tyrolean defenders held for the first time in Vienna in September reinforced regional identity.

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"The Ascent of the Similaun Peak in June 1840." Der Bote für Tirol, 10 August 1840. https://digital.tessmann.it/tessmannDigital/Zeitungsarchiv/Seite/Zeitung/47/1/10.08.1840/151736/4. https://www.meran-archive.com/en/artikel/1840-08-10-die-ersteigung-der-similaunspitze-im-juni-1840